Each Chef Ought to Study At This Spot’: Unassuming Turkish Restaurant Ranks Fourth on Roll of London’s Best Restaurants.

When assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might expect renowned high-end venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these food giants is a simple salonu found in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th finest restaurant in the city by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the owners utterly astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” states a proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that led to their modest shop earning such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing food hotspot, has maintained much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” says the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the fare, and this establishment definitely delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in slowly. As the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically eaten with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, equivalent meals at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am really pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate outside its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider importance of this culinary triumph.